Day 23...Natchez on My Mind

Today was a big day! We rode 89 miles all on The Natchez Trace Parkway from just outside of Tupelo to Kosciusko, MI. Another sunny day and temperatures in the low 80's! For the most part, the parkway roads are flat and smooth and extremely well maintained (and recently repaved)....EXCEPT for a 14 mile stretch of "old" highway which was VERY bumpy (full of expansion joints)! But we grunted through the "rough patch" and eventually hit the smooth roads that followed.

There was a very low volume of traffic, even on a Saturday and the parkway was lovely. We did come across a 10 mile stretch of road where the trees lining it were bare. This area had been hit by the tornadoes and violent storms that struck the area on April 27, 2011. Over 20 miles of trees had been destroyed and the Parkway was closed for some time. This tornado, known as 2011 Super Outbreak, devastated parts of the Southern, Midwestern and Northeastern United States.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/April_25–28,_2011_tornado_outbreak

Natchez Trace Parkway, Tornado destruction

Natchez Trace Parkway, unscathed

Since there were no gas stations to stop at en route we planned to have Jim and the RV meet us for lunch. About 45 miles into the ride, sure enough, we heard the low, steady hum of the RV approaching us. After lunch we set off again, unsure how far we would go today, but hoping to get in at least 85. Jim met up with us on his bike about 75 miles into the ride with a few cold(ish) sodas in hand. We all road back to the RV together marveling at what a gorgeous day it was.

Jim had been waved down by a nice fellow, Alan, earlier when he entered Kosciusko. Alan turned out to be the airport manager in town and offered a spot for us to park the RV right next to his house, which was next to a small hanger and a 5,000 foot runway! The four of us went out to dinner (Mexican) and in our parting conversation for the night, Alan asked if we would all like to take an airplane ride tomorrow morning. Of course! Who wouldn't want to fly the sky before getting on a bike?

The Hanger!

Day 22...Back on the Trail...

It was a chilly morning in Hamilton, AL. Temperatures were in the high 40's ...!!!!....but at least it was sunny and it was SUPPOSED to reach into the upper 70's! We put on our arm warmers, packed up our bikes and set off, headed for a new state: Mississippi. Our first stop was 50 miles away in Tupelo, MI, birthplace of Elvis!

Sitting outside the house Elvis was born in!

We battled some head wind (traveling west) and a few hills but the terrain was definitely an improvement from yesterday. The sun blazed and, indeed, it warmed up to 80! The black bike kit I was wearing (Spokespeople bike kit, of course) absorbed all that sun and made my internal temperature rise. We stopped for fluid refills and when we reached Tupelo, we had a nice lunch with Jim. 

Holding Elvis' Hand :-)

About 5 miles out of town we turned onto Natchez Trace Parkway. We were FINALLY back on the Adventure Cycling bike trail (we had spent the past 5 days finding our own way between the Transamerica and Great Rivers trails so as not to head unnecessarily north, which would add over 200 miles). 

Riding on Natchez Trace Parkway

The Natchez Trace Parkway follows the approximate path of the Natchez Trace which extends 444 miles from Natchez, MS to Nashville, TN. This is a designated bike route (very bike friendly) and no commercial traffic is allowed! We will be riding this road for the next 155 miles or so! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natchez_Trace

Today was a short day, only 61 miles in the saddle. Tomorrow we plan to hit the road early and get at least 85 miles in. Oh, by the way, my bike computer is STILL not working. I've put a call into the Cateye people and despite urges from my dad, Kevin and Jim, I refuse to get a new bike computer. I can fix this. I just need a little help ;-) 

Day 21...Wall of Wind

Approaching a climb

The day started off cloudy and dreary. There wasn't rain in the forecast but we packed our rain coats just in case. The route was easy: go West on Route 258 until we reach Hamilton, Alabama, about 75 miles away. No turns. One road. One direction. I guess riding West means riding into a wall of wind. Add a few thousand feet of climbing to that, and you've got yourself a tough 75 miles. And that's exactly what it was.

It was just us and the road for the first 20 miles. Finally, we found a gas station. Closed. OK, keep pedaling. Next gas station....open! Great. Time to use the toilet and refuel. We stopped for a quick lunch at the half-way point (40 miles) in Double Springs, Alabama and were off again 20 minutes later pushing our pedals against 15-20 mph wind gusts. Ugh!

On some of these tougher days we tend to just put our heads down and push through the miles and not deviate from the course (for sight seeing etc). But when we saw a sign for The Natural Bridge of Alabama, the longest natural bridge East of the Rockies, we had to check it out.

The Natural Bridge
Natural Bridge, AL

Close up of The Natural Bridge

This Natural Bridge is situated in a forest in the town called, coincidentally, Natural Bridge, AL. Natural Bridge (the town) is the smallest populated town in Alabama (only about 30 people live there). The Natural Bridge (the bridge) was formed by an underwater river some 200 million years ago. It is a sandstone arch that spans 148 feet long and 60 feet high over the forest. Within the forest are 27 varieties of fern and Hemlocks dating to the Ice Age. Adjacent to the bridge was whats called The Indian Stone Head which is the profile of an Indian etched into the rock. I was an amazing sight.

Indian Stone Head

The sun FINALLY came out for us in the last 30 miles of the ride. Jim found a nice community parking lot in Hamilton to park the RV in. This afternoon the sun is warm and the winds are slowly dying down. We are cleaning our bikes, repacking the RV and watching pee-wee football practice. Then dinner + bed! Off to Tupelo, Mississippi tomorrow!

Day 20...Maintenance

Lake Gutersville, AL 

The day started with a few bike adjustments: a new battery in the cateye (bike computer) and a slight rotation of my handlebars so that I my position was more upright (more “touring” vs. “racing”). My wrists have been quite sore the past few days and I wanted to take weight off my hands and put more onto my seat…although, to be honest, my “seat” is having problems of her own! Ouch! I put a call into my good friend/PT/bike connoisseur, Sinead, and she suggested I add a few spacers or flip the stem. I figured I would see if rotating the handlebars helped and, if not, would make these additional changes.

Finally we were on the road. I soon realized that my bike computer STILL wasn’t working AND, a few miles later, realized my gears were sticking on what was a noticeably loose/stretched out chain. UGH! At least the handlebar position seemed a bit better. Add “a trip to the bike” store onto our list of things to do today.

My new iron bike.
Bike Store in Gutersville, AL

We stopped in the bike store of a cute water-side town called Gutersville, AL. The bike mechanic could see the slack in my chain and urged I get a new one within the next few days.  A chain’s life span is really no greater than 1,500 miles (so I’ve been told) and mine had about 2,000 miles on her. That was a big part of why I was having problems shifting. Unfortunately this bike store didn’t have the chain I needed. We would have to look into finding another bike store down the road that did have it.

Lunch in Arab, AL

We had a great lunch about 15 miles from Gutersville in a town called Arab. About 5 miles after setting off again, BAM, Kevin got a flat. A nail drove strait through his tire (and gator skin liner) and into his inner tube. Jim happened to be driving by us in the RV at the same time and pulled over (AAA to the rescue). 10 minutes later we were on the road. All 4 tires pumped up and ready to go.

We were headed for Cullman, AL, about 25 miles away. Jim called and said he found a bike store in town that had the chain I needed. Hooray! We rolled into town at 4:30pm and directly into the bike store. I had my new chain put on and the gears realigned. So far so good. The only thing still not working is my bike computer! (I will have to put a call into cateye or perhaps a biking friend of mine reading this blog has a suggestion? I've rebooted it and ensured all batteries are new. Cateye Strada, wireless).

The bike route today was better; better roads, less roadside debris (apart from the nail Kevin rolled over) and seemingly friendlier people on the road. The weather forecast said we would have sun today and “variable” winds today. Well, that didn't happen. In fact, it rained on us again and we hit a strong head wind after lunch. Seriously, will the meteorologists ever get it right? My friend Charles sent me a great link to local weather that I’m going to start using from now on. Hope it helps!

Crossing the Tennessee River

Today we road 70 miles from Pikeville, AL to Cullman, AL. Over 30 miles of the ride was along the water. There were many stops along the way, some necessary, some annoying. Tomorrow we are hoping to log in near 90 miles…and maybe even cross the boarder into Mississippi!

Day 19...Welcome to Alabama

Entering Alabama!

I woke around 5 am to the sound of rain drumming down on the roof of the RV. Oh no. Before I let my mind start to race about riding in the rain. I thought, "wait, slow down Emi, maybe it will stop by the time you get up"...

6:30 am. Still raining. Ugh. I looked at the local forecast on my phone and, indeed, there was a 60% chance of rain ALL day. But, hey, no big deal right? We had already spent more than a few days riding in heavy rain in Virginia and we did just fine. Plus today, we had two things going for us:
1. It was warm(ish) outside
2. The roads were flat!

From the first pedal stroke to the last, the rain fell hard, and it was relentless. To make matters worse, I soon realized my bike computer wasn't working (it needs a new battery). This might have been my biggest struggle today: not knowing how many miles I had traveled. Seeing the odometer turn over is a HUGE psychologic boost while riding, especially when you're trying to ride at least 70 miles. I think we can all agree that watching oneself get closer to a goal, 1/4 way then 1/2 way there, for example, is a great motivator.

The roads were wet and very busy so I spent a lot of energy focusing on keeping my bike on the strait and (sometimes) narrow. 84 miles later and soaked to the bone we finally reached Scottsboro, AL. Jim found a great spot for the RV- the local community center parking lot.  We took a hot shower in the facility ($2 guest pass!!!) and for dinner: homemade whole wheat spaghetti + meat sauce. Tummy filled. Time for bed.

Alabama. Nice 'n Flat!

Cotton Fields!

Day 18...What goes up...

Crossing over Tennessee River
Leaving Loudon, TN

Today we rode 86 miles beginning in Karn, TN and traveling through Loudon, Sweet Water, Athens and Dayton, TN, and ending at Pikeville, TN.

Upon leaving Dayton, 70 miles into the ride, we continued onto Dayton Mountain Highway and passed a sign that read "Trail of Tears, Historic Route". For those of you who do not know, or cannot remember, the Trail of Tears refers to the forced relocation of Native Americans from their homeland in the southeastern United States as per the Indian Removal Act of 1830.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trail_of_Tears

Jim had warned us of a long, steep climb coming out of town but we figured it couldn't be as bad as the Blue Ridge Mountains. Or could it? Within 1/2 mile we started to figure out just what we were in for. We began what would be over 4 miles of steep climbing followed by another 3 miles of steep rollers, including one that crested at the start of Central time zone. (At least we gained an hour!)

Finally, after what seemed like hours grinding up the mountain, we reached the summit. At last! And, as we all know, what goes up, must come down! We began a 5 minute, 4 mile, 35-40 mph descent into Pikeville. A nice treat at the end of a long, tough day in the saddle. We found a local Italian restaurant for some pasta and will be hitting the hay early tonight. Tomorrow we will cross into Alabama!

Another bridge over the Tennessee River
Leaving Decatur, TN

Day 17...Footprints

There's something like a line of gold thread running through a man's words when he talks to his daughter, and gradually over the years it gets to be long enough for you to pick up in your hands and weave into a cloth that feels like love itself.  ~John Gregory Brown

The past few weeks my heart has been heavy waiting to hear each day from my dear friend Ali about how her father was doing. Mr. McJunkin (Ali's dad) has been battling with cancer for over 18 months and had, time after time, beaten the odds to live another day, another week, another month, another year, beyond what the doctor's expected. The last time I saw Mr. McJunkin was at Ali's wedding last July. He wasn't supposed to have lived that long and that was over 14 months ago. He walked his daughter down the isle and danced the night away with his wife and family. I can still see him smiling. 

I met Mr. McJunkin in the fall of 1992, when Ali and I both began our sophomore year at The Lawrenceville prep school. I remember Mr. McJunkin's enchanting enthusiasm, humble wisdom and contagious spirit. Mr. McJunkin became an integral part of my time at Lawrenceville and, for as long as I've known Ali (20 years), he has been more than a father to Ali, he has been her best friend. 

Today, 50 miles into the ride, I received a message from Ali saying her father had passed. It took my breath away and I was overwhelmed with grief. I pulled over on the side of the road with a heavy chest and took a moment of silence for the loss of a great man.  

Mr. McJunkin + Ali in the late 1970's

It is with deepest respect and indescribable sorrow that I write this blog today in honor of Mr. Thomas McJunkin and his amazing family.  Love to you all. 

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Route 11, TN

Today we rode 64 miles from Mooresburg, TN to Karns, TN.