November 7, 2011

Day 46...Welcome to Arizona

If someone asked me how to get to Silver City I would reply, "First you have to traverse a mountain, then you ride over a bunch of steep rolling hills past copper mines, then you descend deep into the city and finally they make you crawl out."

Leaving Silver City, NM
The Continental Divide


This morning Kevin woke up feeling a bit better so we decided to set off early and ride until the storms hit. Yes, we were due to have 20+ mph winds and thunderstorms starting around 12 noon. We pedaled up and out of Silver City, over the Continental Divide (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continental_Divide_of_the_Americas) and then down, down, down for 40 miles until we reached Buckhorn, NM.
Storm clouds approaching
New Mexico


The clouds were rolling in but the wind nor the rain had started yet. We would soon be heading due west and would invariably be riding into a wall of wind +/- rain. After a quick lunch + chat with some nice locals we headed off again bracing for the worst.

Within 5 miles the rain started pelting us and we could feel a strong wind hitting our left side (coming out of the west). Despite the rain (and hail...possibly snow?), the landscape was amazing. Utterly amazing.

New Mexico
New Mexico


We played leap frog with the RV for the next 15 miles, gaging how far we could ride in this weather. We knew that if we could make it up to the Pass (of the Black Range) we would have made it to Arizona and there would be lots of downhill.  This, of course,  meant a lot of climbing. After a stop at mile 61 in Mule Creek, NM for some hot tea (made by chef Jim in the RV), we decided to go for it and set off for the mountains.

 Approaching the Black Range + Arizona
Welcome to Arizona!


10 miles later we crossed the boarder and entered Arizona! A few miles after that, after another thousand feet of climbing, we reached the summit. WOW, an unbelievably expansive landscape blossomed in front of us. We sailed down the road, entering and exiting hair pin turns. I was mesmerized the earth around me like never before on this trip.
Approaching the pass 
Through the pass.....


The descent was beautiful but chilled us to the bone. We were going down, which was great, but I was so cold I absolutely had to stop. So, after 78.78 miles, we called it quits. Not too shabby for today's tough weather and terrain. Welcome to Arizona!
The top of the mountain pass, Arizona
canyon backdrop


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If someone asked me what it's like to bike across New Mexico I would reply, "It's pretty much one big hill."

November 6, 2011

Day 45...Emory Pass....no mercy

Today was brutal. It was the hardest day we have had on this cross country journey. It wasn't just the elevation or wind but it was COLD. We set off at 7:30am with a temperature hovering around 35 degrees. It was meant to get up to 60 degrees but since we were going through some mountains today we knew it probably wouldn't be above 50. We layered up .... but it wasn't enough.



The first 20 miles weren't that bad. We climbed and descended a few thousand feet but the winds were light and, although a bit chilly, we certainly weren't chilled to the bone (see later). We stopped for coffee in Hillsboro, NM where the locals warned us that the next 17 miles were tough. We would be entering the Black Range (also called Devil's mountains) and The Gila National Forest....and then up, up, up until we got to Emory Pass (Elevation 8,800 feet). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Range

On the way up...
 Gila National Forest


We knew we were in for  4-5 thousand feet of climbing today and, to be honest, didn't think much of it. We had, after all, done some serious climbing in the last 45 days. We felt fairly prepared.... although were definitely fatigued from yesterday's whirlwinds.

Uphill?
Yes.
Devil?
Yes.

We had a steady climb for 9 miles from Hillsboro to Kingston. We were getting fatigued but still OK. And then we entered the mountains. The ascents became steeper with switchback after switchback. As we climbed the temperature dropped. And, hey, where was the sun? The winds picked up too.


Ascending towards Emory Pass


Finally, we made it to Emory Pass. Phew. But wait. We were sweating and a bit chilled. The descent was doomed to chill us to the bone. At that it did. We descended fast. 20, 30, 40 mph. We had to stop twice to thaw out. We did jumping jacks, arm swings and ran in place just to get a small amount of feeling back our extremities. It was painful.



50 miles later we were through the mountains. We bumped into Jim and, together, we began a 21 mile grunt to Silver City. We passed Santa Rita copper mine which was quite a site.

Santa Rita Cooper Mine (through the fence)


71 miles. 5,000+ feet of climbing. Sub 40 degrees. Wind. = Brutal day. 

Kevin is shot and tomorrow's weather forecast calls for another cold, windy day....oh, and some thunderstorms. We may be taking our 2nd day off. 

November 5, 2011

Day 44...Dust Storms


Chili Fields
New Mexico


I should have known it was going to be a brutal day when, at 3 a.m, I was woken up by the RV rocking back and forth.....by violent wind gusts. There was a wind advisory for the area since last night so we knew it would be windy.....but when I looked at the weather again in this morning, things were looking worse. Wind gusts were expected to reach 55mph. The winds were from the North and West. And yes, you guessed it right, we were heading North and West. Oh no.  But we were up for the challenge and only hoped that  the winds would shift a bit (by the grace of God?) and be at our back.

Whipping Winds


We weren't so lucky. From the first downstroke of the pedal we were in a wall of wind. I got thrown around the road and once was blown off the road. When the gusts were really bad I chose to walk my bike over the bridges. With my luck, I would get blown off the bridge. Kevin got blown off the road a few times too, and he's about 75 lbs heavier than me. There were dust storms in the fields around us and I cannot tell you how hard I gripped the handle bars when a tractor trailer would approach us in the other lane. For those of you who haven't experienced it, the blow of wind that hits you from an oncoming large truck is unbelievable. Add 40-50 mph winds on top of that and its nerve-wracking.


Red Hot Chili Peppers


There wasn't much opportunity for me to lift my head and take in the beautiful scenery today. What caught my attention was actually the smell around us...the smell of red hot chili peppers being processed at local plants. When I was able to lift my head, the chili pepper fields were a beautiful sight and so different from what we have been seeing (cotton fields). In fact, we passed through the chili capital of the world: Hatch, New Mexico. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatch,_New_Mexico

Our original goal was to ride 71 miles today but, after being beaten up by the wind for 4.5 hrs, we had to reconsider. We saw Jim and Jeff about 33 miles into the ride. They too had been blown around in the RV and had come across some sand storms. The forecast called for stronger winds over the next few hours so we decided to make it a short day and stay in Cabello, NM. Tomorrow the winds should die down but boy are we in for a ride: about 4,000 feet of climbing.

November 4, 2011

Day 43...Goodbye Texas (good riddance)

Welcome to New Mexico.


My friend Mollie told me that there is an expression that goes something like, "Heaven is seeing El Paso in your rear view mirror". Well, after biking for 14 days and 1,063 miles through Texas, it is no surprise that we were delighted to leave . Sure enough, 28.5 miles into our ride today that's exactly what we did.  "Welcome to New Mexico". What a wonderful sight.

It was a bit of a chore getting around El Paso this morning but we managed. Some jerk decided it would be funny to throw a Big Gulp (7-11 drink) at us from his car window. Like the professional and focused cyclist that I am, I didn't even budge when the liquid slammed against my left leg and front wheel. That was my last memory of Texas. What a shame.



The air in New Mexico seemed clean and fresh and for the latter part of our ride we had the wind at our back. We rode through some beautiful Pecan Groves and over the Rio Grande....which was dry? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rio_Grande We had mountain views in the distance and the sun was out.


  
After stopping for a late lunch in Las Cruces we met up with Jim and Jeff in Radium Springs, NM where we will camp for the night.

End of Day 43
New Mexico


There is a severe wind advisory for tomorrow. Up to 45 mph winds. Oh lord. Perhaps we will be lucky and the wind will take us all the way to Silver City, NM. Ha. Fat chance.

November 3, 2011

Day 42...Windshield

Remember my post 2 days ago entitled: "Bugs"? (Some days you're the windshield and some days your the bug). Well, today we were definitely the "windshield". It was a heavenly day full of sunshine and a gentle tail wind ALL day.

HOWEVER, this morning was the coldest yet: 33 degrees! Yes, you read correctly: 33 degrees. What?????

Start of Day 42, Sierra Blanca, TX
Found a silly run down shack to peek our heads out of


I am still perplexed by how western Texas can get this cold. Come on now. We've been pedaling west to get away from the cold! Today, I had four layers on top, two pairs of bike shorts, leg warmers, long gloves, a skull cap and shoe covers. All that clothing and I was still cold for the first 10 miles and it took 90 minutes until I could actually feel my fingertips. Now, does that sound like Texas to you?

In the jeep with the heat turned on high
A futile attempt to warm up before the ride


The sun was out so by the end of the day she warmed us up to about 65 degrees. We rode along the service road of I-10 for the first 20 miles. I swear it was all downhill. Oh, and, as per our Adventure Cycling directions, we had to walk ACROSS the interstate at one point. Please do not tell my mother this. (Just kidding, she reads my blog every day). But it wasn't bad- not too much traffic on the road and it turns out my "running" legs are still there.
Crossing I-10
Pausing in the center median


We passed through Fort Hancock, TX today and were literally riding along the Mexican border. We saw cotton field after cotton field and had a bird's eye view of the machines harvesting the cotton. Very cool http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton There were also a ton of Pecan tree farms. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pecan At one point we had cotton fields to our left and an endless stretch of Pecan trees to our right.

Cotton fields (and Mexico) to my left


We ended the day just outside of El Paso, TX and staying at quite a nice RV park fitted with a very clean indoor pool and hot tub! I already made good use of the hot tub - soaked in it until my fingers pruned up. ;-) Tomorrow we will FINALLY leave this fine state of Texas and enter New Mexico! AND we broke our 3,000 mile-mark today. Total miles to date: 3,009 miles.
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I'd like to welcome my marvelous mom, her fabulous friend Patricia and my wonderful Aunty Sylvia back from their trip to Italy!

November 2, 2011

Day 41...Wind

Leaving Valentine, TX
Day 41


It was one of those days where most sane people would have chosen to sail, NOT ride a bike. That's what my friend Charles wrote me after he saw the video I posted on Facebook. To say we had no choice is wrong. But we are on a mission to get to San Diego and we CHOOSE to go from East to West and with that decision came the very good possibility of hitting head wind, and a lot of it.

30 miles into our WINDY ride  


We were due to travel Northwest today and, as luck would have it, the winds were blowing NNW in the a.m. and WNW in the p.m. between 15-25mph. Smack dab in our face. At least it wasn't raining - the sun was out in full force...and at least it wasn't boiling hot - it was a nice 70 degree day. But the wind. She was merciless.
The Flags Are BLOWIN'


After lunch we found ourself forced onto a major road for about 8 miles. We pedaled as hard as we could to get off it but when we finally did we were pushed onto a very old, half-paved road that paralleled the highway. For 4 miles we grunted over this rutty road more suitable for a cyclocross or mountain bike. My carbon frame was rattling and I was cringing.

Not a road for a road bike


When the road finally smoothed out, the wind calmed a bit. Phew! And we only had 20 miles to go. This last stretch was along the railway (as most of the roads have been in Texas). We heard a train approaching and, like always, we waved in hopes of getting a response from the conductor. In the past, he/she has waved and even honked the horn (do you honk a train's horn?) but today was even better. This conductor opened his sliding window and waved us on like, "come on you two, hurry up!" We laughed and pedaled harder, at least for a bit.
End of Day 41
Sierra Blanca, TX
(see light-colored mountain range to the left of me)


The ride today was short but tough. 71.5 miles, brutal miles. We rode from Valentine, TX to Sierra Blanca, TX and entered a new time zone: Mountain! The best news yet is that we are about 88 miles from El Paso, TX!  
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Some fun things we passed today included...

A Prada store in the middle of Valentine, TX (aka nowhere) .....



A Pecan Farm in Van Horn, TX ....


And a "Jesus Christ is Lord, Not a Swear Word" tractor-trailer...